24 hours in...CAPETOWN!

Hi everyone!

Today’s blog is taking it further afield… to South Africa. Before starting my amazing job, I have to admit that South Africa was not really on my radar and not at all in my top travel list. But then I did my first long haul to Cape Town and everything changed.  

When you land in Cape Town, you notice two things, firstly the weather- the sun in SA is a different type (hot and tropical and prime for tanning) and secondly the atmosphere- statistically it’s impossible for a whole place to be so chilled out and happy but that’s exactly how CPT feels.

Grab a pastry and a coffee and set off towards Table Mountain national park because the earlier you get there the easier to beat the queues. Table Mountain is one of the new 7 natural wonders of the world, at 3,558ft the view from the top is breath taking but also can get very hot so pre-12pm is the time you want to be there.  To get to the top you have 2 options- for those feeling energetic you can hike to the top (eeek!) or for the rest of us who want a more relaxed journey to the peak there’s the cable car.

                                                                      

The cable car costs roughly 240 zar and takes only 15 minutes from the bottom to the top. The entire car is made of glass and the floor spins (faster than you would expect) so you can see up to the mountain and down below from a 360 view. Once at the top, it becomes clear where the ‘table’ part of Table Mountain comes from: the entire peak area is flat and extends far out so that you can walk around and see almost all of Cape Town- from Camps Bay, Lion’s Head, the waterfront, the vineyards and Robbin Island- it’s all there for you to admire! 

 Being so high up is absolutely exhilarating, especially when you compare the peak of Table Mountain to other things, like in this photo where Lion's Head looks like a hill in the park and that's 669m! 

 Unlike most tall attractions in Europe, the perimeter of the top of Table Mountain is not fenced off, which is great for edgy and exciting photos, but not so great for those nervous about heights. When you are sitting on the rocks with nothing separating you from the open air and it is a huge rush!  

Once you have happily taken in all that Table Mountain has to offer, head back down to the gift shop where you’ll get the chance to buy a beautiful photo of yourself with in a fake cable car that you can keep forever (or not). Outside of the cable car station on the ground, there’s a taxi rank where you can grab a taxi down to the V&A waterfront.

The waterfront is where it’s all going on, this is the Cape Town hub for food, shops, and bars…it’s all there! Post Table Mountain, you’ll be hungry so head on over to Quay 4 and grab a table out on the terrace for the best view and atmosphere. Sitting there with a plate of mussels and side of capresse salad topped off with a cold beer, you will have the definite holiday vibe. While you eat you can see the boats coming in and out of the harbour and the occasional jumping fish, plus the relaxing sounds of the gulls and waves make for the perfect lunching experience. Plus with the current low rates of the zar to the pound, you can feast away without breaking the bank!

When you are fed and watered, take a wander along the boardwalk with all the shops and food markets and enjoy the hustle and bustle, particularly from the food court and fish market. The view from the pier is so great, the perfect blend of sea side and city feels! At Nobel Square, you can see a tribute to some of South Africa’s most notable figures in the form of bronze statues, including Archbishop Desmond Tutu and the esteemed Nelson Mandela.

Take a ride on the Ferris wheel (best time to do this: sunset, tres romantic!). The ride lasts 15 minutes and only costs 90 zar (unless it’s your birthday and then it’s 50% off!), and each cabin can fit between 6 and 8 people. Fun Fact: you can actually even get married on the wheel, so y'know, if that’s why you’re in Cape Town….

On the wheel you can get a 360 view of Cape Town from the skies (not unlike Table Mountain, but from a different part of the city), 40 metres above the ground, you can see the Cape Town Stadium and Paarl Mountains as well as across the water and the boats in the harbour. 

After your whirl on the wheel, head to the taxi rank and grab a cab out to Cape Point and Simon’s Town. This journey will take about an hour and in a car of 3 will cost around 300 zar return but I promise you it’s worth it. Heading out of the city through the country roads and the valleys, you get to experience authentic South Africa. The sights and sounds of the rural roads are amazing, animals in their natural habitat, miles and miles without a house or person in sight, the hills and beaches, you won’t be able to tear your eyes away from the window.

When you arrive in Simon's Town, you won’t feel like you’re in the 21^st century anymore. The little wooden shop fronts and old-timey food places are reminiscent of 1920s America; it really is the cutest little place. Stop the car (but make sure you organise a return trip and pick up point!) when you start to see signs for Boulders Beach,and walk along towards it, first stopping at one of the hole in the wall ice-cream places to cool down with a cone before you get to the beach. 

To visit Boulders Beach and the penguins, it costs around 65zar and once you pass through the turnstile you're there. If you've never seen penguins on a beach before, you are in for a treat. The hot sand the crystal clear blue waters, walking across the wooden slats adjacnet to the beach, it definitely seems like the last place on earth you'd be seeing any arctic creatures but BOOM, there the are, just chilling out in little cubby holes in the sand beside the boardwalk. 

For understandable reasons (they bite) the penguins are semi- sectioned off from the general public but that's not to say that you can't get veryyy close to them. Remember that this is their home and sanctuary so don't disturb them too much or litter or destroy any of their property, that's not what Boulder's Beach is about. Seeing hundreds of penguins on a beach splashing about in and out of the surf is something truly amazing and the sort of unique experience that only Cape Town can provide. 

Getting to wander around being surrounded by these cute little cold weathered pals and tanning your shoulders while you do it is so surreal but an unmissable Cape Town attraction. 

On your walk back to the taxi, make sure to check out all the little homemade souvenirs sold by the Simon's Town locals, they are really unusual and lovely and if you want to bring home a reminder of your trip this is the place to get it because the money you spend will be going straight back into the community. 

After all the excitement of the day, it will be closing in on darkness so ask your tax driver to take you to Camps Bay for dinner. This is the more upmarket and classy area of Cape Town and if you can get there for sunset then the view is breathtaking.

For dinner, head to Zenzero. The ambiance here is great, chilled and sophisticated, but the food is heavenly. From the bread and olive tapenade to pick at while you order to the amazing chocolate fondant that comes with caramel icecream, this menu is to die for.

 If a real South African experience is what you're after have a steak wth creamed spinach/butter nut squash and accompany it with a Cabernet Sauvignon. You won't be dissapointed. As is my own personal tradition any time I'm in SA, end the meal with a Dom Pedro- Kahlua, whiskey, ice cream- it's a liquer and a dessert in one and it's the most amazing drink I have ever tasted. Why this creation has not made it across to the UK is beyond me!

  

End the night with some dancing in one of the many clubs/bars in Camps Bay (like St. Yves, Cafe Caprice or La Med) or head to bed and sleep off the red wine. Either way, after 24 hours in Cape Town, you'll need your rest but you'll never forget the trip.

24 hours in....SEVILLA!

Hola a todos!

For blog number 2, I'm heading to my second home, Sevilla. 
Thanks to the ELA program, I was lucky enough to spend an amazing year living and working in the sunny Andalucian city.
So what is a chica/chico to do with a spare 24 in Sevilla? Let me tell you....

Start at  Plaza Nueva and walk all the way along the tram lines (be careful!) down Avenida Constitucion and get some tostada con tomato and a cafe con leche at any of the little cafes along the way (TIP: the ones with bulls and flamenco decor are super touristy, more expensive and less authentic- AVOID!). At the end of the avenida, when you reach Puerto de Jerez, take a left towards Torre Del Oro.

The view of the river from this side of the banks is incredible, even on the cloudiest of days the Guadalquivir (try saying that 3 times fast after a few cervezas) is beautiful. The Torre del Oro, with the Naval Museum inside, is open every day (except Monday) between 11 and 2 and only costs 2 euros. From the top you can see all along the river, its banks and a pretty good amount of Sevilla, well worth the trip up. 
From the Torre Del Oro, walk back along the banks towards the centre again. If you are feeling particularly athletic, you can make use of the city's wide bicycle network Sevici, to get yourself from A to B. Back on Avenida Constitucion, head towards the cathedral but take a right before you get there and head into the Alcazar. 

The Alcazar is without a doubt my most favourite place in the city, I could easily spend days getting lost there and you could too but I would recommend only allowing yourself 2.5 hours there- you only have 24, don't get carried away! Many other cities in Andalucia have similar buildings, remnants of when the area was under Moor reign but the Alcazar in Sevilla is one in a million, with the gardens and the fountains and the ornate palace rooms do not be surprised to see wedding photos being taken there (if I could get married there I would do it in a heartbeat!). TIP: be careful of the wild peacocks, they seem not to share the Sevillana relaxed attitude that the rest of the city has. 

Post Alcazar, head back across the Avenida to the most amazing restaurant Los Coloniales. WARNING: be prepared for a wait but I promise you it is more than worth it. Order some olives and tinto to begin with and then split a couple of plates, the portion sizes are impressive and it's so cheap there will definitely be no fights when it comes to splitting the bill. If you need a little something sweet to round off your meal, Yoghurtlandia is just round the corner (banoffee toppings are the best way forward) but make sure you finish your snack because there's no food allowed in the Cathedral which is the next stop on my 24 hour itinerary.

Surprise fact about Sevilla Cathedral: It's the 3rd largest church in the world. The inside is really beautiful, huge and ornate and full of parts to explore like the museum, treasury and the various chapels not to mention the tomb of the one and only Christopher Columbus! If you are lucky enough to be in the cathedral around the time of a mass, then stick around and listen to the organ and choir singing, its really something.
 

       When you are finished exploring the inside of the cathedral, head up to the top of the Giralda. This is much easier said than done. Back when Sevilla was under the control of the Moors, the Giralda was attached to the Mesquita and during times of fasting, someone would ride a donkey up to the top to ring the bell to call everyone to prayers. Because of this.....there are no stairs. That's right it's a series of sloping ramps all the way from the bottom to the top. (Not for the faint of heart or, unfortunately, the elderly). Even though the (roughly) 70 metre climb up might feel like it will kill you on the way, I promise you it is worth it. The view from the top is absolutely breath taking. I've done the climb maybe 8 times and every time there has been something new that I've noticed, a new perspective of the city but for someone just on a flying visit to the city, the top of the Giralda provides a perfect live action map to see where you've been, where you want to go next and how far apart everything is. 

After sliding down leaving the Giralda, and catching your breath outside the Cathedral,  head through my old neighbourhood the lovely barrio of Santa Cruz towards Parque Maria Luisa. Walk alongside the park past the teatro and the cigar factory turned university that CARMEN was based on! Heading into the beautiful park, stroll through the trees and fountains and eventually you will get to the amazing Plaza de Espana. This is one of my favourite places not just in the city but in the world. It's hard to believe that this beautiful place is where the horrendous act of registering for your NIE (social security number for foreigners) takes place! 
Splurge out 5 euros and rent a row boat and take sail round the little lake/moat that surrounds the plaza. Not only is this a really cute way to see the whole thing but it's also a sneaky arm workout thrown in (rowing is much harder than it looks!). You can fit up to four people in a row boat but I would definitely keep it to 2 or 3; Sevilla is a beautiful and clean city but even then you do not want to end up with any part of your body in that water. Trust me, I'm speaking from experience  for a friend. 

 Walking around the inside of the building you can see little touches of the other cities and zones of Spain built into the columns and floors. Its like taking a stroll around Spain that only takes 10 minutes. The bridges over the moat are such a perfect place for that holiday photo opportunity or (depending on the type of holiday you're on) a proposal, which I've seen more than once. 

Once you are completely done soaking up the wonderfulness of Plaza de Espana, head deeper into the park for a more.....unusual tourist activity. 

About 5-10 minutes walk further on from the plaza,  there is a clearing filled with doves. For about 2 euro you can purchase a bag of birdseed, do this and then stand still and watch what happens. These birds go from 0-60 and descend on you, lightly pecking all the seed off your hands and sitting on your arms, shoulders and head (!!) fluttering away. It is one of the weirdest feelings I have ever felt, not quite sore but not too tickly, I felt like the bird whisperer. I also could not stop laughing the whole time, it was so so surreal. Definitely a top tip in a 24 hour stopover in Sevilla. 

After all this excitement, it will be almost sunset so head back towards the centre to Plaza de la Encarnacion, where in 2011 Jürgen Mayer H made himself pretty unpopular by unveiling his architectural  structure fondly known as Las Setas. The locals don't love it but I do, and its definitely a must see for tourists to Sevilla.  Shaped like a giant mushroom and made of wood (it won't feel like that when you're up there), it's another great way to see the city (there's a bit of a theme appearing to this blog....). For only 3 euros, jump in the lift, head up to the bar, grab a Pedro Ximenez and watch the sun set on the whole of this beautiful city that you've just spent a whole day exploring. The open plan setting makes for an amazing panorama of the city and gives you such a free feeling while you see it all.   Finally at this point, it will be night time but make no mistake this does NOT mean your Sevilla time is over, part 2 of the trip is only just beginning.  Like many other cities in Spain, in Sevilla it is practically rude to go to dinner any earlier than 9pm and definitely do not try and make a reservation (more than once I've had a waiter tut at me on the phone for trying to reserve and also then 'lose' my reservation). For dinner, head on over to Calle Santa Maria la Blanca to Bar Carmela. This cute little restaurant has everything you could want: extensive menu, veggie friendly, not at all touristy and they sell wine in glasses so big they could double as buckets to take to the beach for sandcastles. My go to is the queso de cabra and the patatas con salsa majo and end the meal with some creme catalan. When your stomach is full and you've laid the foundations for the night with a couple of glasses of red and a mojito or two, head over to the famous Carboneria, for some authentic and FREE sevillianas. Get there early because this place fills up so so fast and trust me you do not want to be stuck at the back with no seat!  I don't know if I'm good enough with words to describe the atmosphere and action of the Carboneria but I'll give it a shot. Pre- Sevilla, I was not massively into flamenco and even now I wouldn't willingly sit down and listen to the music sans dancing but I have been to this place easily 15 times and I would go another 15. The guitar and singing is enchanting but once the lady starts dancing its all over, and you are mesmerised. You'll be so hooked that you'll forget about the 6 euro pitcher of of sangria that you'll have inevitably bought for the show. The movement of the dancers feet and the rhythm of the music so perfectly in sync with all the quick movements of the hands and dress without the dancer breaking a sweat or missing a beat, is something beyond amazing. If you make a trip to the Andalusian capital and DON'T make it to the Carboneria, then its basically a wasted trip. (Kidding!) When the show comes to an end head to Calle Perez Galdos to grab some 5 euro bucket Mojitos in the bars along the street. If you fancy something slightly more adventurous, head across the river to the famous/infamous Calle Betis to Long Island, a shot bar with a shot for every state in the USA (no I don't know why either), beer pong, darts and also girls drink free sangria between 10-1 on a Thursday. Vis a vis, hitting the clubs, I would recommend Demo or Big Ben (on Betis) for a more casual night but if its bright lights and full dance floors that you are after Bhudda, Sanctuario or Abril are where it's at. But beware, guard your bags and your livers because the drinks are a lot stronger than the UK and some people get very thievey when drunk.  So there you go, 24 jam packed hours of climbing tall things and drinking lots in my favourite city on earth.  Bonus restaurant recommendations:  La Mia Tana (Italian, Calle Perez Galdos) San Marco (Italian, Calle Meson del  Moro) 100 Montaditos (Sandwiches, allllll over- euro Wednesdays and Sundays!) Lizaran (Mini tapas, all over the city!) Bars- Check out La Alameda for a more casual, hipster vibe and also pretty cheap drinks, the only reason I didn't put it in here was because it didn't fit on the route to/from Carboneria!