24 HOURS IN......SINGAPORE!!

Hi all,

First of all, apologies for the missing entry last week, I was in Tokyo sans laptop and typing an entire blog on my iPad jetlagged is just too much. So, better late than never, here is blog number 6….Singapore!

If you’ve read my Ho Chi Minh blog (its ok, I’m not mad if you haven’t) then you will know how much I love Asia- from the cuisine to the climate to the customs, I love it all. So when work sent me to Singapore on 2 2-day layovers, I definitely wasn’t mad. Although being a relatively new and very small country (it celebrated its 50^th birthday in 2015 marking its independence from Britain) it is jam-packed with things to do and if you find yourself with 24 spare hours here this is how you should fill them…

My favourite thing in Singapore and the first thing you should do is take the metro to Harbour Front to visit Sentosa Island. 

 

From Harbour Front you can get the monorail (for $4) over to the beautiful island. Without one word of exaggeration this place is paradise. Across the island there are many different activities: Universal Studios, Aquarium, Casino and Waterpark to name a few but if you only have a day I recommend you head towards Palawan Beach. 

 

From the station it’s around a 15 minute walk and the walk is beautiful. Palawan beach is the perfect place to relax and unwind and take in the gorgeous scenery while enjoying a cocktail at Bora Bora beach club and catching some rays on the sand and in the water.  

 Walk across the wooden bridge to the miniature island where you can visit the 'Southern most point of continental Asia’ and climb up the watchtower to see for miles around.

This view is so amazing; it’s like being inside a postcard.  On the far side of this little island there is a huge tree leaning out onto the water and it’s a crew tradition to shimmy on out as far along the tree as you can and have your photo taken here. This is much easier said than done because there is nothing to hold onto and there’s hardly any surface to walk on. 

 

Here’s my effort, see if you can do better…

When you’ve fulfilled your R&R quota for the day (I recommend staying 2 hours max if you want to see other parts of the city), head back into the city and towards Little India for lunch. Stepping off the train in Little India (especially post-Sentosa) is like being in a different country. The colours, smells and sounds are like an assault on the senses (in good way!!), walking around you can buy all sorts of spices and beautiful jewellery and anything from all the tiny shops and stalls. Lunch wise- there are tons of tiny restaurants with authentic foods all throughout the area but my recommendation is head off the main road into one of the less touristy restaurants and fill yourself up with roti and rice and butter Marsala paneer (my favourite) all for less than $10. The food is delicious and real Indian and not to be missed! 

After lunch and any souvenir shopping you’ve done, head back into the city and towards the Botanical Gardens. 

  

Singapore’s botanical gardens has been Asia’s Trip Advisor number 1 attraction for 3 years now and definitely needs to be on your to do list for 24 hours here.  The gardens are free entry unless you want to go in to see the orchids, and you should, for around $5 it’s an amazing flower wonderland. The orchid gardens are one of the locations for studies in orchids throughout the world has thousands of different types.  You can spend hours getting lost among all the flowers and being wowed by all the exotic plants and water fountains.

From the serenity and beauty of the gardens, head to Bugis Market for an opposite experience. This is the perfect place to get your tack- souvenirs, phone fixing, traditional snacks. The hustle and bustle of Bugis is so characteristically Singapore- a mix of old and new, traditional and kitsch. Where else would you get knock off Marc Jacob bags and bubble tea at the same time? Save yourself about an hour to fight through the crowds and get a good look around.

By this time it should be almost sunset so head across the city to the ‘Gardens by the Bay’.

 If you’ve ever seen any tourist adverts/posters/postcards of Singapore then this attraction will more than certainly have been featured. The outdoor gardens are free to enter and you will not be disappointed by the decision to visit. The city describes it as ‘a city in a city’ and features all different parts to visit and explore.  From the bay east garden, you can wander among the exotic plants and trees and get a beautiful view out onto the city and the skyline and a place to watch the sun set over the city. Depending on how busy and hungry you are you can spend hours and hours wandering around particularly the Sun Tree Grove and the Kingfisher Lake. 

 

Once the darkness has fallen, head to the bright lights of Chinatown for dinner. Like Little India, this is a whole section of the city that feels unique and separate from where you’ve been all day. From the lanterns in the sky to the open air food stalls and little trinket shops you’ll feel like you’ve been transported from Singapore to Shanghai. Each little open air stall has something unique and delicious to offer, whether its duck or dumplings, noodles or tofu, there is so much choice that no matter where you pick you’re in for a treat. The tiny tables and cosy restaurants make you feel right at home and so far away from the commercial chains of the western world. You can wander around the stalls in the market for hours and marvel at all you can buy , there’s even places you can buy your own ‘tiny living city’ – moss, compost and flowers all growing in a grass bowl! 

Now that the day part of your time in Singapore is over its time to go from tourist garb to full on glam. Clubs and bars in Singapore often have a pretty strict dress code and to get into Marina Bay Sands sky lounge, you can’t be anything less than fab but trust me it’ll be worth it. Head to the hotel and (provided you pass the once over from the bouncers) get the lift up to the 53^rd floor to get to the exclusive and classy affair that is the Sky Lounge. Splurge on a Singapore Sling and sip away while taking in the views of the city all lit up at night. 

If you’re not done with drinks and views then head to 1 Altitude to dance the night away on top of the city. The views there are so insane you won’t want to tear yourself away from the glass panelling around the edge of the dancefloor. Those afraid of heights should steer clear!

And there you go, all 24 hours in Singapore accounted for. I hope you’ve enjoyed the read and let me know what you think!

24 HOURS IN...GENOVA!

Buongiorno a Blog #5… Genova! In truth this blog should probably be called ‘Focaccia and gelato: how to put on a lot of weight in a short space of time” but that doesn’t go with the theme (although disturbingly accurate). In 2014, I was lucky enough to spend a semester at Universita di Genova as part of my degree and despite eating my weight in delicious food on a daily basis, I had an amazing experience. So here goes my attempt to condense this fab city into a 24 trip….

In the heart of the city there is the main Piazza, Piazza della Ferrari (not named after the make of car, surprisingly) which is the perfect place to start a day’s exploring. In the centre of the piazza there is a very majestic fountain which the council change the colour of from time to time to celebrate various events like World Aids Day, World Autism Day etc. It is not so fondly looked upon to drink too much and get into said fountain so bare that in mind when planning your day.  

 

On one side of the Piazza is the Palazzo Ducale, a former home for the chief magistrates is now a grand museum and historical building full of very interesting exhibition from modern photography and art to renaissance paintings. Take your time to wander round each of the floors of this beautiful building, gradually making your way to the Torre Grimaldina. There, with a short presentation from one of the museums qualified staff and a gorgeous orange helmet, you can scale the rickety steps at the base of the tower to discover the top of the building and one of the most amazing views of Genova that you’ll find. On one side you can see all the way to the port, the ships incoming and outgoing and the other to the parks on the outside of the city. This is a perfect place to start your day because you can clearly see all the sights and map out where you want to go.  

The tower is topped with the lesser known flag of Genova, so if you want you can pretend you’re the queen of your own country looking down at all the peasants. Or not, it’s up to you. 

 

 

When you are finished lording over your subjects exploring the city from above, head on down again (it’s definitely scarier coming down than going up just FYI) and back into Piazza Ferrari. Across from the Palazzo, is the best foccaceria in the city, Foccaceria La Superba. Get there before 11 for fresh delicious focaccia; my recommendations are the potato and onion ones. Grab a slice and a cappuccino (although NOT after 11, come on, you’re not a monster) and sit down for a while and take in the piazza, the hustle and bustle of the tourists combined with the daily commuters makes for a nice atmosphere. This is not lunch though, that’s coming later, this is just a little morning treat. Once you’re finished head across to the Teatro Carlo Felice and take a peek inside, unfortunately not much more than a peak unless you’re off to a show. This building is another amazing must see sight of the city, and there are always great shows and operas on and tickets are sometimes affordable if you’re feeling fancy.  

From here head down to Via Garibaldi, ‘Strada Nuova’ is one of the oldest streets in the city and one that is strangely open and wide compared to some of the counterparts leading to the port, but I’ll come to that later. In the 1500s it was known as the golden street because of all the gorgeous buildings and architecture that lines the street and after taking a stroll down it you’ll see why. With palazzos on each side, and the most regal council buildings you’ll ever see, this is no ordinary street.  Whilst you walk down you can visit the Palazzo dei Rolli, a set of royal buildings from ancient times that have been maintained very well, either as part of an organised visit that happens regularly or one by one (though you’ll have to pay each separately) or if you are budgeting you can duck your head in to the non-closed off parts for free. Half way down this beautiful street, just after it turns into Via Cairoli, is another hidden treasure; the most amazing gelato shop. I know that many places boast this but this shop is out of this world. Simple flavours side by side with speciality ones (whisky flavoured for St Patricks, Rose petals for valentines) and without spending more than 3 euros on a 2 scoop there’s nothing that you can fault this fantastic place on. My favourite flavours are hazelnut and cherry if anyone was wondering.

At the end of Via Cairoli, you’ll arrive at Piazza Nunziata. Here is the beginning of the university streets but also the home to Santissima Annunziata del Vasato, one of the most beautiful churches in Genova. Though very severely damaged during WW2, the interior is absolutely breath-taking, so ornate and so much gold! Although it’s free to enter and walk around, the church sells little post cards and mementos and always appreciates donations towards the restoration process. 

After you’ve visited the chapel, head across the road and after a short walk down Via delle Fontane, you’ll reach Porto Antico, one (if not the most) of Genova’s famous attractions.

The port is a fantastic and fascinating place, with stalls of food and drinks and souvenirs for less than a euro to the upmarket restaurants along the water, there’s everything here. You can visit on ‘The galeone’ an old fake pirate ship or splurge out and spend the day at the aquarium. My tips though, if you are short of time and funds then forgo the aquarium, fish are fish you can see them anywhere. Stroll along the port and admire all the luxurious yachts, fishing boats and cruises sailing in. For an aerial view you can of course pay to go in a pod which takes you up high to see a full panorama, or you can be sneaky and take the Eataly elevator up to the store and see it for free (this is also the place to buy holy communion themed pasta, if that’s your thing).  

At the end of the port, head towards Via Canneto il Lungo: it’s lunch time.  My favourite lunch spot it a cute little restaurant, tucked away on Salita Pollaiulo, Sapori Di Genova. These tiny streets are thin and alternatingly winding because of the port itself, it’s to protect the buildings and houses from the wind that comes off the sea. Also when enemies were trying to invade, hot oil was poured down the streets to ward them off, who says Italians aren’t hospitable? Anyway, back to Sapori.  It’s the exact quaint Italian restaurant you would imagine, think lady and the tramp, and think chequered red and white table cloths. But fear not, it’s not a tourist trap, portions are big and reasonably priced and in all the times I’ve been there I’ve never heard another English speaker. My recommendations are a large glass of chianti or montepulciano, some olive focaccia and olive oil to begin with and then the pear and gorgonzola gnocchi. So delicious and so Italian. 

 

When you’ve wined and lunched, head on out to Piazza san Lorenzo to visit the Cathedral. The Cathedral is unusual on the outside, it looks almost stripy and not as ornate as other churches but on the inside it’s beautiful. It might be one of the only churches where you’ll find a bomb inside, yep that’s right on the right had wall of the cathedral there stands an unexploded bomb from when the city was attacked during the second world war. The huge aisle and organ are beautiful and ornate and definitely worth taking the time to visit and admire. 

From the cathedral head back through Piazza Ferrari and towards the house of Cristoforo Colombo, yes the real one. In a weird and wonderful connection to one of my other favourite cities (Seville where he is buried), Genova houses the birth place of the explorer. For around 10 euro you can go into the tiny crumbling house and explore the early life of the man who discovered America. Interestingly enough, in the time that he was born the house was not actually considered part of the city but outside the walls, though now the city boasts him as one of their own (funny that). Inside you can see all of his plans for the famous voyage, the tiny rooms in which he and his family coexisted, postcards and portraits of the ships and stamps from along the way. For someone whose American history is pretty much non-existent, this house is a fantastic interactive history lesson.  The little gardens and gate outside the house mark the old entrance to the city and is a beautiful picturesque spot to get some holiday snaps. 

Head back into the city towards the end of Via Cairoli once more and catch the lift to Spianata Castelletto. At this point it should be coming close to sunset. Head along to the view point at spianata at the exit of the elevator for a wonderful view of the city, there’s even a little viewpoint map to direct you to each different sight that you can see from the ledge- the cathedral, the lighthouse, the port. At sunset, this is a pretty amazing place to be. It’s a magical sightseeing the sun set over all the different parts of the city and the water.

  

 

Walk back on down through Castelletto past the university building of Albero Dei Poveri to Bar 8 Rosso and grab a cocktail and ‘aperativo’ (little snacks they bring you for free when you buy a drink) and relax for a little before dinner. The cocktails and the music at this bar are exactly what you need to relax after a long, jam packed day of sightseeing. It’s also a nice place to chill for a while because the restaurant I’m recommending for dinner doesn’t open until 7.30pm. 

 To get there, head down Via Vallechiara and catch the funicular at Largo Della Zecca all the way along the line until Righi. 

 

At Righi, right at the top of the hill with incredible view of the city is Ristorante Montallegro, one of the oldest (and best, in my opinion) pizzeria’s in the world. Founded in 1913, this restaurant sits right at the top of the hill and you can be wowed by the views while inhaling one of the amazing pizzas, pastas or meat dishes on their menus. My personal preference is Pizza Genovese- pesto parmesan and potatoes. The meals are massive and cost next to nothing and wine is cheap, delicious and comes by the litre, hence why everyone who goes there is merry and full. There’s even an option to get a 12 slice of 3 different types of pizzas to share if your group is feeling hungry and adventurous! You can spend hours eating and drinking here, I would put this place number 1 on my do not miss list of Genova! 

If a night out after dinner is what you’re after, then you’re in the right place, Genova is full of bars and clubs. Piazza delle Erbe is where it’s at for bars: Moretti is an Erasmus student hotspot for cheap alcohol and international tunes and Panterei on a Thursday is 10 euro all you can drink from 10-1.

For clubs: Casa Mia is the only place for a Thursday night session, Banano at the port for fun on the water on a Wednesday, Friday or Saturday, Dream although a little on the grimy side makes a great weekend night out.

Storico is the best pre night out fuel also with 7 euro cocktails and free buffet whilst you eat and handily located on piazza Ferrari.

There you have it, all the food, drinks and sights you can’t miss in 24 hours in Ge-ge-Genova.

Ps. Foccaceria Superba is open 24 hours a day. You’re welcome.

24 hours in......HO CHI MINH CITY

Xin Chao! From South Africa to South East Asia, this blog is focusing on one of the most interesting and unique cities I have ever visited… Ho Chi Minh City (or HCMC if you’re one of the cool kids).

Last summer, as a post university treat, I spent a month travelling round Vietnam with my other half and it was an amazing adventure. Unlike most “travellers” we travelled from south- north and began in the former capital of Saigon.  The hustle and bustle of the city mixed with the quaint markets and temples make it a city truly unlike any other. Head into the financial business district and it feels like you’ve blinked and ended up in London, New York or any other big western city but turn the corner and stumble across a whole street of food stalls where there’s not an English word or ingredient in sight.  

The first thing you should know about HCMC is that, like the Hunger Games, it is separated into districts and like the Hunger Games, avoid districts past 10, district 1 is where you need to be.

Be sure to start your day bright and early, pre 9am (ew!) because the humidity in the city gets unbearable around midday and you want to be well on your way before it hits.

Start by grabbing a pastry and a coffee at one of the cities many coffee houses (DO NOT GO TO STARBUCKS, IT IS A SACRILIDGE!)Vietnamese coffee (in case you haven’t read my blog on Glasgow) is made up of a layer of condensed milk and then a little metal cafetiere type device with coffee packed into it and water poured on top to allow it to filter through and mix at its own pace. Interestingly enough, though many wouldn’t think so, Vietnam is the second biggest exporter of coffee in the world- second only to Brazil and once you’ve had the real deal in HCMC you’ll see why. 

Once you’ve fuelled up head towards the Reunification Palace to begin your sightseeing adventure. An interesting way to pick out the tourists in HCMC is that they are pretty much the only ones walking anywhere, everyone else is on mopeds/scooters and NO ONE obeys any sort of highway code so crossing the road is a task to be undertaken at your own peril (seriously, I’m not even being dramatic.) 

The Reunification Palace(or Independence Palace, depending on who you are talking to)  is a very interesting place to begin your time in HCMC (and Vietnam) because it is absolutely jam packed full of history not only from the Vietnam war as one would think (TIP: in this part of the world it’s referred to as the American war) but also from the period that Vietnam spent under the control of the French. Entrance is around 20,000 vnd and it’s very worth it. 

 

Even just to get in the door of the palace you have to walk up an impressive front yard complete with the actual tank that crashed through the gates marking the end of the Vietnam War! When you get inside there are 3 floors of rooms to explore (as well as a basement complete with gift shop) and you can see everything from the strategical planning room that still has the original maps with points marked off where both Viet Cong and the Americans had landed to the cinema and ornate and beautifully colourful banquet rooms where the Emperor’s wives would entertain over the years. There is even a meeting hall that continues to be in use to this day. Down in the basement there are entire walls filled with pictures and memorabilia of the wars, the propaganda, photos of familiar faces (presidents and prime ministers meeting the emperors and generals) alongside the preserved presidential cars and the war tunnels. As someone who, let’s face it, had pretty much no knowledge of Vietnam’s history prior to visiting, the Reunification Palace is a fantastic first stop on the HCMC tour because it is bursting with information, literary and visual and it is a great way to immerse yourself in the past of the country.

When you are content with your time spent in the Palace (I’d recommend 1.5/2 hours) head through the back of the Palace, through part of Cong Vien Van Hoa Park towards the War Remnants Museum.

 Prior to visiting HCMC, I (obviously) checked trip advisor and this was the top hit for the city, and after visiting you’ll understand why. It should be noted that this is not a museum for the sensitive, with the photo exhibition and reconstruction/ original torture cells, it left me quite emotional. When you arrive at the museum the first thing you notice is all the planes, and if you’re like me and your other half is an aviation geek this will provide you with lots of excitement. It is crazy to think that these fake- looking planes were actually flown during the wars! 

 

Inside there are arrows that direct you around the museum as you follow the story of Vietnam’s involvement in the various world conflicts with a particular focus on the Vietnam War. The story begins on the bottom floor with photos, letters and posters from all the countries that protested the war and a history of the protest movement which is very powerful. However it is on floor 2 that the emotions really begin, in the photo exhibit of the war which I won’t describe in much detail but it illustrates the horrors of the war and the torture inflicted by the Americans in a very detailed manner. There is also a whole room dedicated to Agent Orange and its effects along with all the other chemicals and weapons premiered in the Vietnam War.

The other equally chilling sight that the museum has to offer is located outside on the left hand side of the main building and it is a mixture of mock-ups and real torture devices used on the Vietnamese fighters during the struggles. From guillotines to tiger cages, this exhibition is fascinating but not for those without a steel nerve and iron stomach. Seeing all the photos of real people who really faced these atrocities, in our lifetime is so sobering but I cannot recommend this museum enough. I realise that this section is a bit of a downer and not everyone wants to go on holiday to see depressing sights but the intricate history of the city and all it has been through is part of what makes HCMC such an amazing place to visit.

Post- war museum, head along to Le Loi and Pasteur and grab lunch. Lunch time in Vietnam for me is synonymous with one thing- Banh Mi. Let me explain, crusty baguette (can you tell the French had influence here) stuffed with special seasoning, mayonnaise, coriander, cucumber and either meat, egg or tofu. Unusual for me but this time I’m not going to recommend a specific place to go because the best Banh Mi are in the random little carts dotted about the streets.  You will not be disappointed by Ho Chi Minh’s Banh Mi offerings, and it’s so cheap that you can more than justify having two- the perfect on the go lunch for savvy tourists.

After lunch, head on over to Notre Dame Cathedral (no, not THAT one) for further proof of the French influence here. Although less than 10% of the population are catholic, this church is a beautiful spot not to be missed although be careful as the entrance is a hot spot for beggars and pick pockets! Inside the cathedral is really pretty and ornate and it’s worth a nice log walk around although remembering to be respectful because it is still a place of worship. By this time the humidity will have started to pick up so jump into one of the many little juice spots in the road alongside the cathedral for some pressed juice or iced tea/coffee – my recommendations are green tea or pineapple and coconut juice!

Continue on to the Post Office, bizarre tourist destination I know but its’ actually really pretty an interesting with all the old booths and clocks with all the time zones on them. This is also a great place to pick up cute kitsch non-tacky souvenirs and postcards . Heading back towards the more upmarket part of town you can see the opera house, which is spectacular and impressive and actually not too expensive should you want to see a show. This area of town, with the designer shops and 5 star restaurants is a completely different side of the city to the little Banh Mi carts and food stalls, just reiterating what I said earlier about what a diversely mixed city HCMC is.

Also notice throughout the city, all the beautiful statues of emperors in particular the esteemed Ho Chi Minh, who the city is named after (against his request but that’s a whole different city!).

By now you’ve ticked off pretty much all of my favourite sights in the city bar 2.

The first is your dinner location – the famous (sometimes infamous) Ben Thanh market. Believe me when I say you have never experienced anything like this place in your life.

 

You can hear and smell the market before you can see it, the hot food  and the loud bartering are like a welcome  mat to the market. Turn a corner and boom, back to back food and souvenir stalls, you can get anything from tofu to teapots and in between. Be warned, once you look like you are browsing everyone will come up to you with menus and pictures and try cajole you to their stalls but take your time and make sure you try and find somewhere that’s not full or other tourists because then you’re not going to get the proper food experience that you want. The market food is plentiful and so cheap so start with spring rolls (fresh or fried, both are incredible) then a bowl of pho (pronounced FUH, a thick broth with noodles and either meat, fish or tofu topped with all sorts of herbs and dressings). Beer in Vietnam is literally cheaper than water so you can grab a few cans of Bia Hanoi or Saigon without a second thought also the temperature more than justifies it! After dinner wander round all the stalls, there is so much to see and take it and you never know that you need 12 hand woven bracelets and a knock off pair of Roy Bons until an overenthusiastic sales girl talks you into it.

So you’ve eaten, shopped, toured… what’s left? Oh yes, some drinking. For an unbelievable view and experience head to the Bitexo tower and have a drink in the Skybar, I will warn you it’s not cheap but the view is incredible and you will be in good company as this is where the HCMC professionals unwind. But if (like us) you are on a budget, head to Saigon Inn hostel for a cheaper sky bar (but just as impressive), they also have a much more chilled environment and every night a bar crawl leaves at 11(you even get a t-shirt!)….

So there you go, 24 hours in Ho Chi Minh City, I hope you’ve enjoyed it and if you have any feedback, let me know!