24 hours in......HO CHI MINH CITY

Xin Chao! From South Africa to South East Asia, this blog is focusing on one of the most interesting and unique cities I have ever visited… Ho Chi Minh City (or HCMC if you’re one of the cool kids).

Last summer, as a post university treat, I spent a month travelling round Vietnam with my other half and it was an amazing adventure. Unlike most “travellers” we travelled from south- north and began in the former capital of Saigon.  The hustle and bustle of the city mixed with the quaint markets and temples make it a city truly unlike any other. Head into the financial business district and it feels like you’ve blinked and ended up in London, New York or any other big western city but turn the corner and stumble across a whole street of food stalls where there’s not an English word or ingredient in sight.  

The first thing you should know about HCMC is that, like the Hunger Games, it is separated into districts and like the Hunger Games, avoid districts past 10, district 1 is where you need to be.

Be sure to start your day bright and early, pre 9am (ew!) because the humidity in the city gets unbearable around midday and you want to be well on your way before it hits.

Start by grabbing a pastry and a coffee at one of the cities many coffee houses (DO NOT GO TO STARBUCKS, IT IS A SACRILIDGE!)Vietnamese coffee (in case you haven’t read my blog on Glasgow) is made up of a layer of condensed milk and then a little metal cafetiere type device with coffee packed into it and water poured on top to allow it to filter through and mix at its own pace. Interestingly enough, though many wouldn’t think so, Vietnam is the second biggest exporter of coffee in the world- second only to Brazil and once you’ve had the real deal in HCMC you’ll see why. 

Once you’ve fuelled up head towards the Reunification Palace to begin your sightseeing adventure. An interesting way to pick out the tourists in HCMC is that they are pretty much the only ones walking anywhere, everyone else is on mopeds/scooters and NO ONE obeys any sort of highway code so crossing the road is a task to be undertaken at your own peril (seriously, I’m not even being dramatic.) 

The Reunification Palace(or Independence Palace, depending on who you are talking to)  is a very interesting place to begin your time in HCMC (and Vietnam) because it is absolutely jam packed full of history not only from the Vietnam war as one would think (TIP: in this part of the world it’s referred to as the American war) but also from the period that Vietnam spent under the control of the French. Entrance is around 20,000 vnd and it’s very worth it. 

 

Even just to get in the door of the palace you have to walk up an impressive front yard complete with the actual tank that crashed through the gates marking the end of the Vietnam War! When you get inside there are 3 floors of rooms to explore (as well as a basement complete with gift shop) and you can see everything from the strategical planning room that still has the original maps with points marked off where both Viet Cong and the Americans had landed to the cinema and ornate and beautifully colourful banquet rooms where the Emperor’s wives would entertain over the years. There is even a meeting hall that continues to be in use to this day. Down in the basement there are entire walls filled with pictures and memorabilia of the wars, the propaganda, photos of familiar faces (presidents and prime ministers meeting the emperors and generals) alongside the preserved presidential cars and the war tunnels. As someone who, let’s face it, had pretty much no knowledge of Vietnam’s history prior to visiting, the Reunification Palace is a fantastic first stop on the HCMC tour because it is bursting with information, literary and visual and it is a great way to immerse yourself in the past of the country.

When you are content with your time spent in the Palace (I’d recommend 1.5/2 hours) head through the back of the Palace, through part of Cong Vien Van Hoa Park towards the War Remnants Museum.

 Prior to visiting HCMC, I (obviously) checked trip advisor and this was the top hit for the city, and after visiting you’ll understand why. It should be noted that this is not a museum for the sensitive, with the photo exhibition and reconstruction/ original torture cells, it left me quite emotional. When you arrive at the museum the first thing you notice is all the planes, and if you’re like me and your other half is an aviation geek this will provide you with lots of excitement. It is crazy to think that these fake- looking planes were actually flown during the wars! 

 

Inside there are arrows that direct you around the museum as you follow the story of Vietnam’s involvement in the various world conflicts with a particular focus on the Vietnam War. The story begins on the bottom floor with photos, letters and posters from all the countries that protested the war and a history of the protest movement which is very powerful. However it is on floor 2 that the emotions really begin, in the photo exhibit of the war which I won’t describe in much detail but it illustrates the horrors of the war and the torture inflicted by the Americans in a very detailed manner. There is also a whole room dedicated to Agent Orange and its effects along with all the other chemicals and weapons premiered in the Vietnam War.

The other equally chilling sight that the museum has to offer is located outside on the left hand side of the main building and it is a mixture of mock-ups and real torture devices used on the Vietnamese fighters during the struggles. From guillotines to tiger cages, this exhibition is fascinating but not for those without a steel nerve and iron stomach. Seeing all the photos of real people who really faced these atrocities, in our lifetime is so sobering but I cannot recommend this museum enough. I realise that this section is a bit of a downer and not everyone wants to go on holiday to see depressing sights but the intricate history of the city and all it has been through is part of what makes HCMC such an amazing place to visit.

Post- war museum, head along to Le Loi and Pasteur and grab lunch. Lunch time in Vietnam for me is synonymous with one thing- Banh Mi. Let me explain, crusty baguette (can you tell the French had influence here) stuffed with special seasoning, mayonnaise, coriander, cucumber and either meat, egg or tofu. Unusual for me but this time I’m not going to recommend a specific place to go because the best Banh Mi are in the random little carts dotted about the streets.  You will not be disappointed by Ho Chi Minh’s Banh Mi offerings, and it’s so cheap that you can more than justify having two- the perfect on the go lunch for savvy tourists.

After lunch, head on over to Notre Dame Cathedral (no, not THAT one) for further proof of the French influence here. Although less than 10% of the population are catholic, this church is a beautiful spot not to be missed although be careful as the entrance is a hot spot for beggars and pick pockets! Inside the cathedral is really pretty and ornate and it’s worth a nice log walk around although remembering to be respectful because it is still a place of worship. By this time the humidity will have started to pick up so jump into one of the many little juice spots in the road alongside the cathedral for some pressed juice or iced tea/coffee – my recommendations are green tea or pineapple and coconut juice!

Continue on to the Post Office, bizarre tourist destination I know but its’ actually really pretty an interesting with all the old booths and clocks with all the time zones on them. This is also a great place to pick up cute kitsch non-tacky souvenirs and postcards . Heading back towards the more upmarket part of town you can see the opera house, which is spectacular and impressive and actually not too expensive should you want to see a show. This area of town, with the designer shops and 5 star restaurants is a completely different side of the city to the little Banh Mi carts and food stalls, just reiterating what I said earlier about what a diversely mixed city HCMC is.

Also notice throughout the city, all the beautiful statues of emperors in particular the esteemed Ho Chi Minh, who the city is named after (against his request but that’s a whole different city!).

By now you’ve ticked off pretty much all of my favourite sights in the city bar 2.

The first is your dinner location – the famous (sometimes infamous) Ben Thanh market. Believe me when I say you have never experienced anything like this place in your life.

 

You can hear and smell the market before you can see it, the hot food  and the loud bartering are like a welcome  mat to the market. Turn a corner and boom, back to back food and souvenir stalls, you can get anything from tofu to teapots and in between. Be warned, once you look like you are browsing everyone will come up to you with menus and pictures and try cajole you to their stalls but take your time and make sure you try and find somewhere that’s not full or other tourists because then you’re not going to get the proper food experience that you want. The market food is plentiful and so cheap so start with spring rolls (fresh or fried, both are incredible) then a bowl of pho (pronounced FUH, a thick broth with noodles and either meat, fish or tofu topped with all sorts of herbs and dressings). Beer in Vietnam is literally cheaper than water so you can grab a few cans of Bia Hanoi or Saigon without a second thought also the temperature more than justifies it! After dinner wander round all the stalls, there is so much to see and take it and you never know that you need 12 hand woven bracelets and a knock off pair of Roy Bons until an overenthusiastic sales girl talks you into it.

So you’ve eaten, shopped, toured… what’s left? Oh yes, some drinking. For an unbelievable view and experience head to the Bitexo tower and have a drink in the Skybar, I will warn you it’s not cheap but the view is incredible and you will be in good company as this is where the HCMC professionals unwind. But if (like us) you are on a budget, head to Saigon Inn hostel for a cheaper sky bar (but just as impressive), they also have a much more chilled environment and every night a bar crawl leaves at 11(you even get a t-shirt!)….

So there you go, 24 hours in Ho Chi Minh City, I hope you’ve enjoyed it and if you have any feedback, let me know!