Buongiorno a Blog #5… Genova! In truth this blog should probably be called ‘Focaccia
and gelato: how to put on a lot of weight in a short space of time” but that
doesn’t go with the theme (although disturbingly accurate). In 2014, I was
lucky enough to spend a semester at Universita di Genova as part of my degree
and despite eating my weight in delicious food on a daily basis, I had an
amazing experience. So here goes my attempt to condense this fab city into a 24
trip….
In the heart of the
city there is the main Piazza, Piazza della Ferrari (not named after the make
of car, surprisingly) which is the perfect place to start a day’s exploring. In
the centre of the piazza there is a very majestic fountain which the council
change the colour of from time to time to celebrate various events like World
Aids Day, World Autism Day etc. It is not so fondly looked upon to drink too
much and get into said fountain so bare that in mind when planning your day.
On one side of the Piazza is the Palazzo
Ducale, a former home for the chief magistrates is now a grand museum and
historical building full of very interesting exhibition from modern photography
and art to renaissance paintings. Take your time to wander round each of the floors
of this beautiful building, gradually making your way to the Torre Grimaldina.
There, with a short presentation from one of the museums qualified staff and a
gorgeous orange helmet, you can scale the rickety steps at the base of the
tower to discover the top of the building and one of the most amazing views of
Genova that you’ll find. On one side you can see all the way to the port, the
ships incoming and outgoing and the other to the parks on the outside of the
city. This is a perfect place to start your day because you can clearly see all
the sights and map out where you want to go.
The tower is topped with the
lesser known flag of Genova, so if you want you can pretend you’re the queen of
your own country looking down at all the peasants. Or not, it’s up to you.
When you are finished
lording over your subjects exploring the city from above, head on down again
(it’s definitely scarier coming down than going up just FYI) and back into Piazza Ferrari. Across from the Palazzo, is the best foccaceria in the city,
Foccaceria La Superba. Get there before 11 for fresh delicious focaccia; my recommendations
are the potato and onion ones. Grab a slice and a cappuccino (although NOT
after 11, come on, you’re not a monster) and sit down for a while and take in
the piazza, the hustle and bustle of the tourists combined with the daily
commuters makes for a nice atmosphere. This is not lunch though, that’s coming
later, this is just a little morning treat. Once you’re finished head across to
the Teatro Carlo Felice and take a peek inside, unfortunately not much more
than a peak unless you’re off to a show. This building is another amazing must
see sight of the city, and there are always great shows and operas on and
tickets are sometimes affordable if you’re feeling fancy.
From here head down to
Via Garibaldi, ‘Strada Nuova’ is one of the oldest streets in the city and one
that is strangely open and wide compared to some of the counterparts leading to
the port, but I’ll come to that later. In the 1500s it was known as the golden
street because of all the gorgeous buildings and architecture that lines the
street and after taking a stroll down it you’ll see why. With palazzos on each
side, and the most regal council buildings you’ll ever see, this is no ordinary
street. Whilst you walk down you can
visit the Palazzo dei Rolli, a set of royal buildings from ancient times that have
been maintained very well, either as part of an organised visit that happens
regularly or one by one (though you’ll have to pay each separately) or if you
are budgeting you can duck your head in to the non-closed off parts for free.
Half way down this beautiful street, just after it turns into Via Cairoli, is
another hidden treasure; the most amazing gelato shop. I know that many places
boast this but this shop is out of this world. Simple flavours side by side
with speciality ones (whisky flavoured for St Patricks, Rose petals for
valentines) and without spending more than 3 euros on a 2 scoop there’s nothing
that you can fault this fantastic place on. My favourite flavours are hazelnut
and cherry if anyone was wondering.
At the end of Via
Cairoli, you’ll arrive at Piazza Nunziata. Here is the beginning of the
university streets but also the home to Santissima Annunziata del Vasato, one
of the most beautiful churches in Genova. Though very severely damaged during
WW2, the interior is absolutely breath-taking, so ornate and so much gold!
Although it’s free to enter and walk around, the church sells little post cards
and mementos and always appreciates donations towards the restoration process.
After you’ve visited
the chapel, head across the road and after a short walk down Via delle Fontane,
you’ll reach Porto Antico, one (if not the most) of Genova’s famous
attractions. 
The port is a fantastic and fascinating place, with stalls of food
and drinks and souvenirs for less than a euro to the upmarket restaurants along
the water, there’s everything here. You can visit on ‘The galeone’ an old
At the end of the
port, head towards Via Canneto il Lungo: it’s lunch time. My favourite lunch spot it a cute little
restaurant, tucked away on Salita Pollaiulo, Sapori Di Genova. These tiny
streets are thin and alternatingly winding because of the port itself, it’s to
protect the buildings and houses from the wind that comes off the sea. Also
when enemies were trying to invade, hot oil was poured down the streets to ward
them off, who says Italians aren’t hospitable? Anyway, back to Sapori. It’s the exact quaint Italian restaurant you
would imagine, think lady and the tramp, and think chequered red and white
table cloths. But fear not, it’s not a tourist trap, portions are big and
reasonably priced and in all the times I’ve been there I’ve never heard another
English speaker. My recommendations are a large glass of chianti or
montepulciano, some olive focaccia and olive oil to begin with and then the
pear and gorgonzola gnocchi. So delicious and so Italian.
When you’ve wined and
lunched, head on out to Piazza san Lorenzo to visit the Cathedral. The
Cathedral is unusual on the outside, it looks almost stripy and not as ornate
as other churches but on the inside it’s beautiful. It might be one of the only
churches where you’ll find a bomb inside, yep that’s right on the right had
wall of the cathedral there stands an unexploded bomb from when the city was
attacked during the second world war. The huge aisle and organ are beautiful
and ornate and definitely worth taking the time to visit and admire.
From the cathedral
head back through Piazza Ferrari and towards the house of Cristoforo Colombo,
yes the real one. In a weird and wonderful connection to one of my other
favourite cities (Seville where he is buried), Genova houses the birth place of
the explorer. For around 10 euro you can go into the tiny crumbling house and
explore the early life of the man who discovered America. Interestingly enough,
in the time that he was born the house was not actually considered part of the
city but outside the walls, though now the city boasts him as one of their own
(funny that). Inside you can see all of his plans for the famous voyage, the
tiny rooms in which he and his family coexisted, postcards and portraits of the
ships and stamps from along the way. For someone whose American history is
pretty much non-existent, this house is a fantastic interactive history lesson.
The little gardens and gate outside the
house mark the old entrance to the city and is a beautiful picturesque spot to
get some holiday snaps. 
Head back into the
city towards the end of Via Cairoli once more and catch the lift to Spianata Castelletto.
At this point it should be coming close to sunset. Head along to the view point
at spianata at the exit of the elevator for a wonderful view of the city, there’s
even a little viewpoint map to direct you to each different sight that you can
see from the ledge- the cathedral, the lighthouse, the port. At sunset, this is
a pretty amazing place to be. It’s a magical sightseeing the sun set over all
the different parts of the city and the water.
Walk back on down
through Castelletto past the university building of Albero Dei Poveri to Bar 8
Rosso and grab a cocktail and ‘aperativo’ (little snacks they bring you for
free when you buy a drink) and relax for a little before dinner. The cocktails
and the music at this bar are exactly what you need to relax after a long, jam
packed day of sightseeing. It’s also a nice place to chill for a while because
the restaurant I’m recommending for dinner doesn’t open until 7.30pm.
To get
there, head down Via Vallechiara and catch the funicular at Largo Della Zecca
all the way along the line until Righi.
At Righi, right at the
top of the hill with incredible view of the city is Ristorante Montallegro, one
of the oldest (and best, in my opinion) pizzeria’s in the world. Founded in
1913, this restaurant sits right at the top of the hill and you can be wowed by
the views while inhaling one of the amazing pizzas, pastas or meat dishes on
their menus. My personal preference is Pizza Genovese- pesto parmesan and potatoes.
The meals are massive and cost next to nothing and wine is cheap, delicious and
comes by the litre, hence why everyone who goes there is merry and full. There’s
even an option to get a 12 slice of 3 different types of pizzas to share if
your group is feeling hungry and adventurous! You can spend hours eating and
drinking here, I would put this place number 1 on my do not miss list of
Genova!
If a night out after
dinner is what you’re after, then you’re in the right place, Genova is full of
bars and clubs. Piazza delle Erbe is where it’s at for bars: Moretti is an Erasmus
student hotspot for cheap alcohol and international tunes and Panterei on a Thursday
is 10 euro all you can drink from 10-1.
For clubs: Casa Mia is
the only place for a Thursday night session, Banano at the port for fun on the
water on a Wednesday, Friday or Saturday, Dream although a little on the grimy
side makes a great weekend night out.
Storico is the best
pre night out fuel also with 7 euro cocktails and free buffet whilst you eat
and handily located on piazza Ferrari.
There you have it, all
the food, drinks and sights you can’t miss in 24 hours in Ge-ge-Genova.
Ps. Foccaceria Superba
is open 24 hours a day. You’re welcome.
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